Painting Process

Baseshakers · Unread post by **Baseshakers** » Tue Dec 23, 2014 10:16 pm

I'm curious what everyone's preferred painting process is. I know none of us follow the instructions on the cans exactly...

I'm asking because my rear bumper needs to be repainted. The first time I:
-wire wheeled it
-wiped it down with xylene
-sprayed it with rust converter, let sit for an hour or so
-wiped it down again
-used two coats of eastwood primer, letting it dry ~30 minutes in between
-used three coats of eastwood extreme chassis black, also letting it dry ~30 minutes in between

It's been ~3 years, and rust is showing through (and yes, even on the parts where I haven't bashed the hell out of it) Any recommended changes to the process? What's worked well for everyone else?

Frank · Unread post by **Frank** » Wed Dec 24, 2014 8:57 am

Ryan : Lets start by saying you did more to that piece of steel then needed. The reason you have bleed through is , they cant put a lot of paint pigment in a rattle can or it wouldnt spray. Its really thin paint. You need to strip it to at least the primer and use someones spray gun . If you choose to buy one at say HF or Hcheapo , get a HVLP gun 30/40 buks for a cheap one. Make sure you have a water separator on the line in front of the gun. Buy Rustolium for 8 buks a quart and reduce it buy half ! Spray at 40/50 PSI depending on the gun. You will have to adjust the gun but they come with instruction . My take on the situation ! That is all. Merry Christmas FjR68

Kurt · Unread post by **Kurt** » Wed Dec 24, 2014 9:48 am

Frank wrote:.... they cant put a lot of paint pigment in a rattle can or it wouldnt spray. Its really thin paint. FjR68

Very interesting! Good to know

schwalby · Unread post by **schwalby** » Wed Dec 24, 2014 10:48 am

I just sand off anything that is loose and spray it with a rattle can. May only last a little over a year but it doesn't take long to redo it either.

Baseshakers · Unread post by **Baseshakers** » Wed Dec 24, 2014 12:24 pm

Hmmm, so you think the prep and process is fine (ok, excessive) but the overall paint is just not thick enough, right? I do have a spray gun, water separator and secondary regulator, I just haven't used the gun in awhile... Reduce by half using xylene, correct?

Merry Christmas Franky!

del_TJ · Unread post by **del_TJ** » Wed Dec 24, 2014 1:11 pm

My front and rear bumpers have stayed rust free for over 5 years, except for where I have banged and scraped them of course. They came powder coated and I scuffed and top coated them with a clear coat. The rear bumper got a thick top coat of POR-15 clear coat (forgot the exact name), while the front one got a clear rattle can from Eastwood. Can't hurt if you want to give it a try.

Frank · Unread post by **Frank** » Fri Dec 26, 2014 9:31 am

Ryan : Most paint mfgs. Tell you on the can what to use for a reducer , (not thinner) With Rustoleum I use the same reducer I would with auto paint. You look right there on the rack with the paint , its probably right there. The clear coat can be added to the paint or done after. Without a sealer it will fade quicker as the clear is like a sealer. Most types on paint can use reducer and only a few use Naptha for a reducer. Respirator required ! Reducer suspends the paint pigments and thinner will break them down , (thin paint) . Any thing you paint out of your gun will look better and last longer simply because your applying paint at your rate not what can come out of the little spray nozzle on a can. Cans are great if your putting her in the show at the mall , but I really dont see that style with you , Even if Cat is with you ! Merry Christmas you two FjR68

DDewar53 · Unread post by **DDewar53** » Mon Dec 29, 2014 2:30 pm

Ryan- buy a can of any kind of brush-on bed liner and stop worrying about it.

Baseshakers · Unread post by **Baseshakers** » Mon Dec 29, 2014 6:39 pm

Franky, thanks for the help! Ended up painting it this weekend... Time will tell. Don, not a bad idea but I've seen Bedliner peel up pretty easily. However if this doesn't hold up I'll try that next!

Frank · Unread post by **Frank** » Tue Dec 30, 2014 8:35 am

I used Dupli-color sand finish undercoat on my bumpers. They say on the can its paintable but I havent had much luck with it sticking after a hit. I leave them black now minus any paint and it seams to be almost chip free. Totally did the whole underside also. Black can with big white insert on the front label . They have a thicker rubberized one that I dont care for as when its wicked hot out it gets tacky again. FjR68

mrfreakinwhite · Mon Jan 05, 2015 5:23 pm

The more gloss in your spray can, the better the paint works.
I like it with a little less gloss, usually, but it is better when it sticks and seals better. The gloss keeps it cleaner, less friction.

Rustoleum Industrial Grade spray paint is the best I've used. It costs more, but it also coats better and lasts longer.

nostaw · Unread post by **nostaw** » Tue Jan 06, 2015 2:26 pm

I've been told you should cut the canned rusoleum with mineral spirits in the proportions Frank said for use in an HVLP gun... Never tried it myself.

JW

Frank · Unread post by **Frank** » Wed Jan 07, 2015 8:43 am

Again : Most paint Mfg. include that info right on the label . Most will indicate reducer,mineral spirit,Naptha (respirator) FjR68

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