Regear and Lockers

[saf98tj]

Just want to get some opinions as I am a bit new to this. My rear ring gear and spider gears are damaged. I figured this is a good time to regear from 3.73's to 4.56 for my 33" tires. I also plan to swap out my limited slip diff to a selectable locker. I need a new carrier anyways. The OX locker was recommended to me and this is what I will likely go with. I am trying to decide what to do with the front. I am not sure I want to spend the money on the ox for the front for the amount of wheeling I do and am leaning towards an automatic locker or just leaving it open. I don't really drive the jeep in the snow and ice so I think the automatic would be ok. Would having the OX in the rear and an Aussie in the front be a decent setup for the trails the club runs? Is the Aussie loud on the road in 2wd? Should I bite the bullet and put ox lockers on both ends?

Thanks


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[Frank]

Dude : The selectable in the rear is a great choice. Almost any brand will be reliable and worth the investment . For the front , let me suggest not putting in an automatic locker. Even though you have it in 2 wd the axle is still rotating and the locker will still activate . It will have steering quirks as it locks and unlocks. If it were me Id look at doing a Detroit True-Trac . Its a limited slip gear drive with the highest bias ratio . You wont even know its in there on the street but on a trail with one wheel in the air it will still move the other wheel like a locker but it can differentiate on any turn without any bind whatsoever . I started with that one and recommend it to anyone asking. Best part is there are no clutch plates to ever wear out. If you find in the future you need a locker then get one. Good luck . FjR68

[saf98tj]

Hi Frank thank you for the suggestion. I hadn't really considered a tru trac. I will definitely look into it.


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[Frank]

Its really is the best option for a street driven vehicle without hubs or a big money selectable. I put them in all 3 of our Rangers , My Sport-Trac. After it was in my Jeep for three yrs. I sold and installed it in a kids Jeep here and I think its still in there. FjR68

[saf98tj]

It was suggested to me that it would be better put the true trac in the rear and the locker in the front as the limited slip can still lock and cause some steering quirks. Any truth to this?


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[Frank]

If its a Detroit Tru-Trac : You wont know its in there ! Period ! There is no locking or un-locking ever. It differentiates constantly. Its gear drive , so its never jerky and I believe the mags had wright ups on this point claiming it to be the best for rotating front ends. My opinion is like the president might change at any moment ! FjR68

[ASauer17]

My opinion is like the president might change at any moment ! FjR68

[saf98tj]

Thanks Frank. Would a true trac in the front and rear be a reasonable option?


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[Frank]

Absolutely ! Right up to the point where you want to push the limits of your vehicle and your talents . Buy them both for the cost of a selectable ! FjR68

[saf98tj]

Well Frank I took your advice and regeared with the trutracs front and rear. Cant wait to try them out. So far happy with the 4.56 gears. Working on breaking them in.


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[Frank]

If they are in there , they are working just fine ! You must not have felt it quirking , I would think if you power through a tight turn it will make the inside tire bark. They are good units , I happy your happy ! FjR68

[saf98tj]

No quirking. All good! Thank you.


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[saf98tj]

Hi Frank. I have noticed a thunk sound when starting from stop in reverse with my wheels cut all the way to one side. Can't tell if it's coming from the front our rear. Is this normal?


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[Frank]

Its hard to diagnose sounds this way. I dont think its normal at all but there are so many things it could be. Lets start with , a company you paid did this work ? Being it only happens in "R" with the wheels cut, I would start looking at the front axle "U" joints. The more you have the wheels turned , the harder time the U-joint has. The drive shafts have U-joints at both ends. The T-case mount . The list goes on. Id start with the front shafts. I think the R&P and posi units are not to blame as they would do it all the time. U joints sometime dont make any noise till their done and then Tada ! Jack a wheel off the ground and while looking at the U-joint rotate the axle (tire) in both direction slowly to where it stops. Leave it in gear ! Look at a 4 bearing cups and there should be NO movement. Turn the steering wheel and do the same thing to see if the joint has play again looking for any play at the bearing caps. With the gear change you have better torque to the wheels and maybe the u-joint are tired. Start there and if all fails take it to who ever did the gear change and they can help. Unless your close to members and not an outcast like me. Let me know. FjR68

[saf98tj]

Hi frank. Thanks for the suggestions. Yes they were professionally installed. I spoke with Eaton and they said that this type of noise is possible. Especially with synthetic oil or valvoline standard oil. Not sure what makes valvoline bad but it happens to be what my shop used. They suggested Shell spirax oil or any other "quality" 80w/90 oil. I couldn't find this oil locally and the only other name brand non synthetic I could find was Castrol. The noise wasn't there before the install and the front u joints ate fairly new. I just hit the 500 mile break in period. I am taking the jeep back to the installer tomorrow to change the diff oil and have a look inside and take a drive around. I will let you know if I find anything out.


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