lockers & re-gearing

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ZAEDOCK
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Re: lockers & re-gearing

Unread post by ZAEDOCK »

asauer17 wrote:Seriously loving everyones opinion in what they have.

Doug - I haven't heard people who who an auto locker say whether or not they have an automatic or manual transmission! That little piece of information could make or break a decision!

When I used to drive to the trails, I ran a rear Lockright and my SM420 manual tranny. You can definitely feel it, but it's not that bad. When building said manual drivetrain, I actually had a 4.0L/AW4 automatic out of an XJ in my rig with the same locker. The automatic does mask the "feel" better, but again - even with a manual it was not bad.
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DOUG
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Re: lockers & re-gearing

Unread post by DOUG »

asauer17 wrote:Seriously loving everyones opinion in what they have.

Doug - I haven't heard people who who an auto locker say whether or not they have an automatic or manual transmission! That little piece of information could make or break a decision!

I will look into some prices, but Dom's estimate doesn't seem to bad to me!
With the manual tranny and a Detroit, or any automatic locker, it will sometimes engage and disengage when you shift gears, enough so you can feel it (may feel like the Jeep wants to change lanes, more so in a short wheelbase vehicle like your TJ), along with some popping noise. No big deal, it's doing it's thing.

I had a Detroit in my old XJ with a Dana 44 rear, AX15 5spd, driving through town one day shifting from 1st to 2nd and bang... the whole Jeep shifted to one side...I thought I broke an axle. I ran a Lock-Rite in a CJ-7 Dana 44 with a 999 automatic, and you hardly knew it was there. Unless you stayed on the gas when taking a corner, then the inside tire would chirp.
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84cj
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Re: lockers & re-gearing

Unread post by 84cj »

I have a 5 speed nv3550 with 4.56 and 35's. It will cruise the highways from hear to Moab at 75 all day long (literally), unless of course you through a steep grade in there then my CJ struggles a bit. 4.88's would be a decent choice as well, but right now my 1st gear is so low I have to change gears as often as a semi. Oh and did I mention I have an Detroit, never let you down locker in the rear and a lunchbox in the front with manual hubs.

Driving in the snow, especially uphill and loosing a bit of traction, the locker will have the jeep driving like the rear steer of a monster truck is engaged, but that is on very rare occasions. It clunks every now and again, but that is it. The cost savings is something to consider as well.

Good luck with your choice, because in the end you have to be comfortable driving your jeep with confidence.
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ArticRubi
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Re: lockers & re-gearing

Unread post by ArticRubi »

I'm a big fan of selectable front, feel you could go either way in the rear and be happy. If you're paying for install, might as well go ahead and have the gearing done, and if you want to run 35's, I'd also look in to sleeving your front axle tube and having gussets welded into the C's. As far as gears go, I went with Superior for my ring and pinion ($185 per. diff) and master rebuild kit ($225 per diff.) That's about $800 parts. I had a shop do my gear job, they quoted $900 labor for gears, and $1200 labor for gear and the sleeve gusset job....its just cheaper in the long haul to go ahead and have it done while everything is opened up. So, all in all, about $2k parts and labor.

4.88's seem to be the sweet spot running 35's with a 5 or 6 speed manual, put them in mine and I'd recommend them to anyone else. Also feel like they'll do fine if I make the jump to 37's.
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