This does not look good...

ChrisD · Unread post by **ChrisD** » Mon Dec 05, 2011 5:48 pm

Looks like someone is going to be in the market for a new oil pan! If I only had bought the engine skid plate, but no I kept putting it off.

This will be replaced with Blue Torch Fab brackets

ZAEDOCK · Unread post by **ZAEDOCK** » Mon Dec 05, 2011 9:09 pm

Makes me glad I run a 4 popper. I'd pull the pan and zap a plate on there.

ChrisD · Unread post by **ChrisD** » Mon Dec 05, 2011 10:48 pm

Anyone know how hard it is to pull the pan?

Kurt · Unread post by **Kurt** » Mon Dec 05, 2011 11:02 pm

Yes

Just a tedious, oily job. Gotta pay attention when re-installing the new pan gasket to be sure you have sealant in all the right spots.
You may want to replace the RMS if you are pulling the pan.

Per the 2003 FSM
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove the oil pan drain plug and drain the
engine oil.
(4) Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust
manifold.
(5) Disconnect the exhaust hanger at the catalytic
converter and lower the pipe.
(6) Remove the starter motor. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL).
(7) Remove the engine flywheel and transmission
torque converter housing access cover.
(8) If equipped with an oil level sensor, disconnect
the sensor.
(9) Position a jack stand directly under the engine
vibration damper.
(10) Place a piece of wood (2 x 2) between the jack
stand and the engine vibration damper.
(11) Remove the engine mount through bolts.
(12) Using the jack stand, raise the engine until
adequate clearance is obtained to remove the oil pan.
(13) Remove transmission oil cooling lines (if
equipped) and oxygen sensor wiring supports that
are attached to the oil pan studs.
(14) Remove the oil pan bolts and studs. Carefully
slide the oil pan and gasket to the rear. If equipped
with an oil level sensor, take care not to damage the
sensor.

johnsxj · Unread post by **johnsxj** » Tue Dec 06, 2011 12:07 am

If it ain't leaking, don't worry about it! Just get yourself an engine skid and call it good.

ChrisD · Unread post by **ChrisD** » Tue Dec 06, 2011 12:25 am

What is a RMS?

Time will only tell if it is leaking.... still kicking myself

ZAEDOCK · Unread post by **ZAEDOCK** » Tue Dec 06, 2011 1:05 am

Rear Main Seal.

Felpro makes a nice one piece rubber gasket with anti crush rings. I've used them on a bunch of friends rigs and even my 2.5L.

Hoodoo Man · Unread post by **Hoodoo Man** » Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:14 am

If you add an engine skid (as I finally did before RC (thats Rausch Creek Chris

) make sure you add as fumoto valve with a nipple to the pan to make it easier to change the oil.. Kurt and Ryan schooled me on that.

ZAEDOCK · Unread post by **ZAEDOCK** » Tue Dec 06, 2011 11:01 am

I don't want any ninja parts on my Jeep. LOL

I would bend up a skid and use a hole saw to make a port for the plug. Piece of cake.

Looks like you may have tagged the aluminum bellhousing/tranny a couple times too. You don't want to hit that too often!

Modeler · Unread post by **Modeler** » Tue Dec 06, 2011 2:31 pm

Joliet Jake Blues wrote:If you add an engine skid (as I finally did before RC (thats Rausch Creek Chris ) make sure you add as fumoto valve with a nipple to the pan to make it easier to change the oil.. Kurt and Ryan schooled me on that.

I run one as well on mine. I warm the engine for a few minutes if it is cold out before draining the oil, straight into a jug through a hose attached to the fitting. No muss, no fuss. I added a small hose clamp around the part where the lever is to hold it down and keep it from getting moved if anything gets up in there, probably not needed, but it is there for piece of mind.

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