JEEP REPAIR FOR DUMMIES
- Widow Maker
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- Jeep Year: 1997
- Jeep Model: TJ Wrangler
JEEP REPAIR FOR DUMMIES
Hi all - I have a 1997 TJ Wrangler 6 cyl Automatic I purchased used in February 2008. It currently has 124,000 Miles on it. I am experiencing a couple of issues with it and would like to make these repairs on my own, however, be forewarned I am a rookie at this but not afraid to try it myself. I have Haynes and Jeep Bible books I refer to as well.
1) What should a Wrangler be RPM'ing at when it warms up? It currently is at the line directly below the 1000 RPM mark and that feels high to me. Also, experiencing a pretty heavy vibration when Jeep is in park or sitting with foot on brake in Drive. My dash is buzzing and everything around it. Not idling rough, just this awful vibration.
When this started I took it to my local off road shop and they told me the fan clutch had to be replaced so that is why the idle was so high - it was not kicking down after the initial warm up. This work was done however, the issue still there plus now the fan makes a squeek that was not there before. And the idle still seem high to me.
A friend suggested maybe my throttle body was dirty so I took off the air hose and sprayed with Carb cleaner and cleaned the throttle body and the "butterfly" or little trap door which I held open by pushing that little arm next to it. I used a toothbrush as well and it was pretty dirty. It seems to have lowered the RPM's just a bit better than before. I tried not to spray too much down that pipe below the trap door. How far can I reach down with the toothbrush and Carb spray before I hurt something? This was my first time doing this too but seemed easy enough.
Someone else suggested to change Temperature Sensor and this would kick the idle down. I found where that is on the Jeep but just wanted to confirm right thing to do???
Other than that, the Jeep is running great (and fast) and not throwing any codes or stalling or not starting.
Also cleaned and oiled my K&N filter - which had not been cleaned since Oct 2009 - my bad however, I have this marked on my calendar for follow up every 3 months.
2) When braking or turning a corner, on rear passenger side by back tire something makes a POP POP sound - sometimes several times in a row. My shop said the rear track bar bolt area was egg shaped and he welded a round washer there to tighten it but I still hear that POPPING sound.
3) Heater knob started to work only on OFF and on HIGH. Well due to cold weather recently the knob completely split and fell off so I am using pliers now to turn off and on. Is this an easy fix for both of them? Checked Haynes manual but they show a YJ toggle switch and not what I have.
4) Changing diff fluids - should bolts be removed by hand or OK to use Impact gun? Also I read some owners use a tube to drain the fluids instead of removing the whole diff cover, but again others thought it better to remove the whole cover and apply new sealant along with new fluids of course. I am on the fence here on which is better to do.
Apologize for such a long post! Thanks for all the advice you can give me here!
1) What should a Wrangler be RPM'ing at when it warms up? It currently is at the line directly below the 1000 RPM mark and that feels high to me. Also, experiencing a pretty heavy vibration when Jeep is in park or sitting with foot on brake in Drive. My dash is buzzing and everything around it. Not idling rough, just this awful vibration.
When this started I took it to my local off road shop and they told me the fan clutch had to be replaced so that is why the idle was so high - it was not kicking down after the initial warm up. This work was done however, the issue still there plus now the fan makes a squeek that was not there before. And the idle still seem high to me.
A friend suggested maybe my throttle body was dirty so I took off the air hose and sprayed with Carb cleaner and cleaned the throttle body and the "butterfly" or little trap door which I held open by pushing that little arm next to it. I used a toothbrush as well and it was pretty dirty. It seems to have lowered the RPM's just a bit better than before. I tried not to spray too much down that pipe below the trap door. How far can I reach down with the toothbrush and Carb spray before I hurt something? This was my first time doing this too but seemed easy enough.
Someone else suggested to change Temperature Sensor and this would kick the idle down. I found where that is on the Jeep but just wanted to confirm right thing to do???
Other than that, the Jeep is running great (and fast) and not throwing any codes or stalling or not starting.
Also cleaned and oiled my K&N filter - which had not been cleaned since Oct 2009 - my bad however, I have this marked on my calendar for follow up every 3 months.
2) When braking or turning a corner, on rear passenger side by back tire something makes a POP POP sound - sometimes several times in a row. My shop said the rear track bar bolt area was egg shaped and he welded a round washer there to tighten it but I still hear that POPPING sound.
3) Heater knob started to work only on OFF and on HIGH. Well due to cold weather recently the knob completely split and fell off so I am using pliers now to turn off and on. Is this an easy fix for both of them? Checked Haynes manual but they show a YJ toggle switch and not what I have.
4) Changing diff fluids - should bolts be removed by hand or OK to use Impact gun? Also I read some owners use a tube to drain the fluids instead of removing the whole diff cover, but again others thought it better to remove the whole cover and apply new sealant along with new fluids of course. I am on the fence here on which is better to do.
Apologize for such a long post! Thanks for all the advice you can give me here!
Re: JEEP REPAIR FOR DUMMIES
A few thoughts...
The vibrations at idle / in park / not moving suggest (to me) you may have a bad/worn out/broken motor mount bushing...
I don't see why a bad fan clutch would prevent the engine form going from cold idle to hot idle -- that sounds like BS to me. The temp sensor makes sense... I believe it should be located on the thermostat housing.
Hard to say for sure, but it is possible you've (also) got worn bushings in your rear control arms, which would allow the axle to shift and cause a popping noise (just a guess).
You shouldn't need an impact gun to get the diff cover bolts off... You could strip / break one, and it would be a real PITA. Try it by hand first.
JW
The vibrations at idle / in park / not moving suggest (to me) you may have a bad/worn out/broken motor mount bushing...
I don't see why a bad fan clutch would prevent the engine form going from cold idle to hot idle -- that sounds like BS to me. The temp sensor makes sense... I believe it should be located on the thermostat housing.
Hard to say for sure, but it is possible you've (also) got worn bushings in your rear control arms, which would allow the axle to shift and cause a popping noise (just a guess).
You shouldn't need an impact gun to get the diff cover bolts off... You could strip / break one, and it would be a real PITA. Try it by hand first.
JW
- Carl McFly
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Re: JEEP REPAIR FOR DUMMIES
The heater / fan problem, I have that same prob on my XJ. Should be the blower motor resistor. PITA to change on an XJ, not sure about a TJ. Costs maybe $40 for the partPeaceFrog wrote: Heater knob started to work only on OFF and on HIGH. Well due to cold weather recently the knob completely split and fell off so I am using pliers now to turn off and on. Is this an easy fix for both of them? Checked Haynes manual but they show a YJ toggle switch and not what I have.
Changing diff fluids - should bolts be removed by hand or OK to use Impact gun? Also I read some owners use a tube to drain the fluids instead of removing the whole diff cover, but again others thought it better to remove the whole cover and apply new sealant along with new fluids of course. I am on the fence here on which is better to do.
Diff fluids - put the impact gun down and WALK AWAY SLOWLY! The bolts should come off easy with a 3/8" drive ratchet. Even if they don't, you still don't want an impact wrench near them. My vote is to remove the cover, and reinstall it with a bead of sealant. After you clean the mating surfaces
As far as the other questions, I'll let the more experienced (smarter) guys handle those
"Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads"
- ZAEDOCK
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Re: JEEP REPAIR FOR DUMMIES
The 4.0L typically idles about 600-700 RPM when warmed up. My 2.5L idles about 700-800.PeaceFrog wrote:1) What should a Wrangler be RPM'ing at when it warms up? It currently is at the line directly below the 1000 RPM mark and that feels high to me. Also, experiencing a pretty heavy vibration when Jeep is in park or sitting with foot on brake in Drive. My dash is buzzing and everything around it. Not idling rough, just this awful vibration.
A friend suggested maybe my throttle body was dirty so I took off the air hose and sprayed with Carb cleaner and cleaned the throttle body and the "butterfly" or little trap door which I held open by pushing that little arm next to it. I used a toothbrush as well and it was pretty dirty. It seems to have lowered the RPM's just a bit better than before. I tried not to spray too much down that pipe below the trap door. How far can I reach down with the toothbrush and Carb spray before I hurt something? This was my first time doing this too but seemed easy enough.
A slightly higher idle may be an indication of a vacuum leak. A good way to check, would be to spray some carb cleaner or starting fluid around the intake manifold and hoses. If the idle goes up, you have a leak.
The idle is controlled by the IAC (Idle air controller) which is one of the sensors on the side of the throttle body. They are easily removed and cleaned and may not be cleaned enough by just spraying the butterfly. There should be 4 torx bolts that hold it on (you might have to order a set of anti-tamper torx) and can then clean the plunger.
Keep in mind that it's been pretty cold too, and one of the parameters of closed loop control is coolant temp. Take the Jeep out on the highway for a bit. Take notice of the idle after getting off and see if it's still just under 1,000.
Coolant temp sensors very rarely go bad. A multi meter would be a good way to check it, but I would only do so if the IAC/TB cleaning and vacuum leak check did not improve the condition.
The clutch fan is a mechanical device and does not affect idle level at all. The engine would idle the same whether the fan had no clutch, or was even removed completely! As to the squeek, I'd have to hear it, but perhaps you need a new belt or at least tightening now that the original fan was replaced.PeaceFrog wrote:When this started I took it to my local off road shop and they told me the fan clutch had to be replaced so that is why the idle was so high - it was not kicking down after the initial warm up. This work was done however, the issue still there plus now the fan makes a squeek that was not there before. And the idle still seem high to me.
That's an excessive schedule for filter cleaning. Air filters are actually more effective the dirtier they get, and if you over-oil the K&N's, their filtering efficiency decreases. Personally, I would do once a year, only if dirty.PeaceFrog wrote:Also cleaned and oiled my K&N filter - which had not been cleaned since Oct 2009 - my bad however, I have this marked on my calendar for follow up every 3 months.
It very well could still be the track bar mount or bar itself. Another inspection to determine the cause would be in order.PeaceFrog wrote:2) When braking or turning a corner, on rear passenger side by back tire something makes a POP POP sound - sometimes several times in a row. My shop said the rear track bar bolt area was egg shaped and he welded a round washer there to tighten it but I still hear that POPPING sound.
I know TJ's had some issues with the heater control switch. I believe the solution is to replace the unit as previously mentioned.PeaceFrog wrote: 3) Heater knob started to work only on OFF and on HIGH. Well due to cold weather recently the knob completely split and fell off so I am using pliers now to turn off and on. Is this an easy fix for both of them? Checked Haynes manual but they show a YJ toggle switch and not what I have.
As Carl said, "drop the impact gun!". Absolutely no need for such force on those small bolts. Just a 1/2" wrench and 2 minutes and the cover is off. Removing the rear cover is the best way to remove ALL the old fluid. Extractors will not be able to get everything. Also, IMO, it allows you a chance to inspect your gears and related components.PeaceFrog wrote:4) Changing diff fluids - should bolts be removed by hand or OK to use Impact gun? Also I read some owners use a tube to drain the fluids instead of removing the whole diff cover, but again others thought it better to remove the whole cover and apply new sealant along with new fluids of course. I am on the fence here on which is better to do.
I have always used RTV to seal my diff covers, so after cleaning the cover, squeeze your bead on and let it skim over before installation.
BSJ President 2003 - 2005Carl McFly wrote:X2, I agree with Joe. And not just because he's man candy
- Widow Maker
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Re: JEEP REPAIR FOR DUMMIES
Thanks guys! Great info for a beginner like myself. I'll post up to let you know how it went.
- DDewar53
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Re: JEEP REPAIR FOR DUMMIES
Sounds like another tech day is in order...
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- schwalby
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Re: JEEP REPAIR FOR DUMMIES
Or a you-do-it day.DDewar53 wrote:Sounds like another tech day is in order...
Josh Schwalb
ArticRubi wrote:Remember: poor planning on my part constitutes an emergency on yours.
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Re: JEEP REPAIR FOR DUMMIES
An FYI...I clean the K&N filter once every 12 months.
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- midniteryder
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Re: JEEP REPAIR FOR DUMMIES
Unfortunately we don't have a garage so we will have to wait for next tech day or when no snow and ice on the driveway.
- Carl McFly
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Re: JEEP REPAIR FOR DUMMIES
If you need a hand with some of the smaller stuff (diff fluid changes, maybe replace the blower motor resistor) I'll prolly be at U-Do-It this Saturday morning. If there's a storm Friday night, I'll be busy with other stuff. Otherwise I'll be in Nashua Saturday, working on my rig until maybe noon time. I can give you a hand after thatmidniteryder wrote:Unfortunately we don't have a garage so we will have to wait for next tech day or when no snow and ice on the driveway.
"Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads"
- Widow Maker
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Re: JEEP REPAIR FOR DUMMIES
Thank you Carl - watching the storm here too for the weekend - supposed to be a coastal thing and that is where we live as well. A U-DO-IT-DAY sounds like you rent a bay for a couple of hours to work on your rig for those of us that are missing a garage attached to our house??Carl McFly wrote:If you need a hand with some of the smaller stuff (diff fluid changes, maybe replace the blower motor resistor) I'll prolly be at U-Do-It this Saturday morning. If there's a storm Friday night, I'll be busy with other stuff. Otherwise I'll be in Nashua Saturday, working on my rig until maybe noon time. I can give you a hand after thatmidniteryder wrote:Unfortunately we don't have a garage so we will have to wait for next tech day or when no snow and ice on the driveway.
- Hoodoo Man
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Re: JEEP REPAIR FOR DUMMIES
yes that is correct. they are in Nashua NH and rent by the hour per bay. Just about all the tools you could normally ever need are there so you bring your rig and parts.midniteryder wrote:
Thank you Carl - watching the storm here too for the weekend - supposed to be a coastal thing and that is where we live as well. A U-DO-IT-DAY sounds like you rent a bay for a couple of hours to work on your rig for those of us that are missing a garage attached to our house??
I have a small "to do list" myself - passengers side track bar bushing bump stops and spring clips. If its not too bad Saturday AM I would love help with my stuff as well. Any one up for a wrench fest with Carl, Rob and I for Saturday???
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2003 Jeep Rubicon 2" BDS Spring lift 35s and MCE fenders
2012 Jeep JKU 2.5' Terafkex spring lift, Rock Hard Bumpa, skids, BodyArmor4x4 sliders..
Re: JEEP REPAIR FOR DUMMIES
Maybe available for a few hours Sat... have to see what is going on at home.
JW
JW
- ZAEDOCK
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Re: JEEP REPAIR FOR DUMMIES
The last engine swap my brother and I did was in a snow storm.midniteryder wrote:Unfortunately we don't have a garage so we will have to wait for next tech day or when no snow and ice on the driveway.
beer = warmth
Just remember where the cans are when it comes time to snow blow the driveway.
BSJ President 2003 - 2005Carl McFly wrote:X2, I agree with Joe. And not just because he's man candy
- Carl McFly
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Re: JEEP REPAIR FOR DUMMIES
anyone else says that and I'd have my doubtsZAEDOCK wrote: The last engine swap my brother and I did was in a snow storm.
"Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads"