Most CV driveshafts use SAE 5/16" fine thread bolts. Any decent autoparts store should have what you need (reduced head with a shoulder)

For the short term, pull your front driveshaft and steal the bolts at the t-case yoke to mount up the rear!

Calling agents Scully and Mulder!!!!!!!

Carl,
Even with coupons how'd you manage to only drop $40 ???

Does anyone know why their tools are so affordable?? Regarding strength/longevity.. I wonder how a Craftsman socket set (sockets only) would compare to a HF socket set?? I've learned over the years to stay away from MOST of the HF wrenches and socket sets (3/4" drive and impact sockets are O.K...

there might be one for the gear cluster, or they might have packaged an extra?

Zip ties are your friend!!!!!

Pretty much the biggest baddest ones you can find!!!!!!!!!! The snap ring that has to be removed then installed is pretty darn big (fits around the output shaft) and has a good amount of tension. Those convertible tip ones from Sears ain't gonna cut it.

Royal Purple makes some that is supposed to be excellent. I used Penzoil when I did my tranny swap with good results so far.

If you want the 4:1 low range, it would have to be out of a Rubicon. Best to find one that was behind whatever type of trans you got now.

Your friend sounds like a wise person!

all this talk made me go out and buy a new filter and fluids for my AW4! And while my XJ is up in the air, may as well drain and fill the t-case and front and rear diffs, get her ready for some trails Take care dropping the pan on the AW4!!!!!!!!!!! The dipstick tube goes into the pan and not the t...

Sounds like you had a case of low fluid and that sloshed away from the pick up when you went from rev to drive.

You can always try finding the 241OR out of a Rubi JK

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break out the dremil and carefully cut a couple slits in the cap.