100 K checkup quest

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BlackKnight
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100 K checkup quest

Unread post by BlackKnight »

So the dealer found a tear in the boot of the drive shaft(rear) they have the cost at ~500$ from what I've seen a tom woods custom shaft is like $600. What would be the better choice?

Secondly, they found a crack in the radiator. This is the second one. They want $600 for a new stock one. I can get a Hashimoto double core all aluminum (not the part plastic one like OEM. How difficult is a radiator swap?
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BlackKnight - Commando Green '13 JKU w/EVO (R Fascia w/D's, ProSeries Front, Skids, 4" Lift) Powerstop z36 kit, 38" Patagonia MTss, PoisonSpyder Diff Armor, SuperWinch w/factor55 Prolink, FOX 2.0 shocks. JKS Track Bars
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Frank
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Re: 100 K checkup quest

Unread post by Frank »

WoW ! 600 for a TW . My rear and front were just over that. Wonder why . What I can say is TW builds quality. If it has a DC joint , make sure you also grease the centering ball . many forget or dont know its there. Tom over stock any day . The TJ/LJ had an issue on those plastic tanks near the bottom hose connection . Any radiator with metal tanks is better simply because its all welded together. Your stock rad is glued and crimped together. Aluminum is lighter and a double would add to the cap of the cooling system . Maybe a quart / half Gallon. I put in a Cross flow 3 core in my CJ and its near a gallon more. Over heat , or just hot is no longer the issue. In a cross flow , the coolant goes horizontal through the rad to cool better than vertical. A lot of people say they dissipate heat quicker . Im not a geek so I cant prove it other than showing you old picks of Mona with 2 elect fans helping move air . Today is just the stock metal not even clutch fan. Id go for both. You can change both in you drive way if you have U-Tube FjR68
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MDSRACING398
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Re: 100 K checkup quest

Unread post by MDSRACING398 »

Do your homework Mishimoto quality has gone down hill in recent years. They have great customer service and the lifetime replacement is great. But changing a radiator every year isn't worth it to me. Griffin is still a quality company.

Also if a stock shaft has done you fine for 100,000. Plenty of people pull stock shafts. Find a take off and slap it on. I may be wrong or the price you quoted might include it but I believe you need to change the yokes if go aftermarket.
Last edited by MDSRACING398 on Sun Nov 17, 2019 8:03 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Hoodoo Man
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Re: 100 K checkup quest

Unread post by Hoodoo Man »

I've heard good things about Adams driveshaft. Might want to call Barrett Fab or Offroad Elements. Barrett got me a fabulous price on my PSC gearbox, just a hair cheaper than ORE. both are great assets to the local wheeling community and both were cheaper than online. :D
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BlackKnight
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Re: 100 K checkup quest

Unread post by BlackKnight »

Thanks for the Suggestions guys...

Definitely looking into Griffin, and ORE for some work ...
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KenCal
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Re: 100 K checkup quest

Unread post by KenCal »

Bob you can buy a new boot for your driveshaft from Quadratec for around $30. But if your looking at new DS's definitely Tom Woods.
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BlackKnight
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Re: 100 K checkup quest

Unread post by BlackKnight »

Ken, How difficult is the boot to install? Something that could be done at a Wrenchfest easily? According to the Stealership it's "throwing grease all over the place", so I'm only worried how long I'll be lasting without fixing it... I'm figuring that it had to have torn at the 101 this year, the last time I was out, I'm figuring that I may make it through the winter...
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BlackKnight - Commando Green '13 JKU w/EVO (R Fascia w/D's, ProSeries Front, Skids, 4" Lift) Powerstop z36 kit, 38" Patagonia MTss, PoisonSpyder Diff Armor, SuperWinch w/factor55 Prolink, FOX 2.0 shocks. JKS Track Bars
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BlackKnight
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Re: 100 K checkup quest

Unread post by BlackKnight »

Just found a Youtube Video. From their description it's not the main boot, but the CV boot where there is grease internally. I'll slide under the jeep at work tomorrow to see if it's the CV, Looks like the crown automotive replacement is for the entire CV and runs just short of $100 and according to the youtube video takes about 2 hours with tools and know how. Tools required would be a puller to get the CV off the shaft and then something to help drive the replacement back on, along with a Band fastening clamp to lock the boot in place...
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BlackKnight - Commando Green '13 JKU w/EVO (R Fascia w/D's, ProSeries Front, Skids, 4" Lift) Powerstop z36 kit, 38" Patagonia MTss, PoisonSpyder Diff Armor, SuperWinch w/factor55 Prolink, FOX 2.0 shocks. JKS Track Bars
KenCal
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Re: 100 K checkup quest

Unread post by KenCal »

The boot that covers the two DS sections is only $30 or so. Easy job, disconnect both ends of the DS, before separating the two sections mark them so you put them back the way they were. After they are apart grease the shaft slide the new boot on, crimp the clamps and re install the DS. But what you described sounds like something totally different though. There is a rebuild kit for what you called the CV end, repazza joint or something like that I think. About $142 from TeraFlex. Maybe someone here can correct me on the name of that joint.
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Frank
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Re: 100 K checkup quest

Unread post by Frank »

Thats what you get for wearing it out on the street ! Them speed bumbs are killin ya ! FjR68
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BlackKnight
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Re: 100 K checkup quest

Unread post by BlackKnight »

Frank wrote:Thats what you get for wearing it out on the street ! Them speed bumbs are killin ya ! FjR68
ROFLMFAO!! Yep... :lol:
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BlackKnight - Commando Green '13 JKU w/EVO (R Fascia w/D's, ProSeries Front, Skids, 4" Lift) Powerstop z36 kit, 38" Patagonia MTss, PoisonSpyder Diff Armor, SuperWinch w/factor55 Prolink, FOX 2.0 shocks. JKS Track Bars
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